1962 to 1965 Mopar Web Site graphic, based on early 1960's Mopar Logo

1962 - 1965 Mopar Technical Tips and Links

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One great benefit of the emerging World Wide Web is the creation of the ability to quickly and easily share knowledge and information.

In the Mopar cyberspace arena there are many people who have developed web sites to share their Mopar passion! There is much sage advice available providing technical lessons on how to keep these Mopars on the road in one form or another.

Let us know if you have the address of a good technical site to share with others.

Here are some preliminary links to other web sites wrenched by Mopar fans:

tapered axle pullerPulling tapered axles
Note from Paul L. -- “When using the puller on the rear drums, remove the castle nut and then reinstall it backwards and thread it on just far enough so that it is flush with the end of the axle. This will ensure that the end of the axle does not get flared out from the pressure you are going to put on it. Use a fist maul or a sledge hammer to tighten the center screw on the puller. When it seems like it is good and tight against the axle use the hammer to give it a good whack on the end of the puller’s center screw. A lot of times you will hear a pop and find that the hub has popped loose. If it does not work the first time, rinse lather and repeat!” Brian S. adds: “One way to prevent the axle thread from mushrooming is to remove the castle nut and reinstall it backwards. Leave the flat side of the nut even with the end of the axle to prevent thread damage.”  Gary H. adds: “Put a very tiny amount of anti-seize on the axle where the drum makes contact. It will make removal next time less troublesome.“ Plymouth Club Tech: “How to remove a rear brake drum and hub” CJ3B Jeep Reference

Don Dulmage's Place: Don's Dodges

Don has lots of good engine building tips given with the average Mopar fan in mind: that is, having wallet's with money restrictions installed. For example,
building a Mopar 460 from a 400 block,
an affordable 383
a reliable 440 race motor, (see the "Books" section of the References Page);
and more.

Ultrajosh's Mopar Resources:

Links to books, sites, etc. re: mostly referring to A-Body 60's Mopars, small blocks, suspension upgrades, and more.

Early 'Cuda Tech Page

How to tech articles, book reviews, specification numbers and project examples.
Much of the basic B-body mechanicals remained similar throughout that platform's production run. Many mechanical parts also swap across the other Mopar body platform styles, i.e., A-Body, C-Body. Here are some pointers.

Rebuilds and Upgrades

318 Poly graphic created by Schuyler Wrobel! Building a 500 Horsepower Polyspherical 318 318 Poly sticker graphic created by Schuyler Wrobel!

Automotive Calculations by Bowling & Grippo, including:
Design Your Own Internal Combustion Engine, Ignition Circuit Simulation, Aerodynamic and Rolling HP Loss Calculation, Compression Ratio Calculation, Miles-Per-Gallon Estimation Calculation, Speedometer Gear Calibration, RPM and MPH Correlation, Best Differential Gear, Best Header, Battery Cold-Cranking Amp Estimation, Battery Cold-Cranking Amp Temperature Adjustment, Compression Ratio Influence, Engine Displacement Calculation, Driveshaft Velocity Calculation, Roadway Vehicle Dynamometer, ET and MPH Environmental Correction, Cylinder Head Flow Correction, Holley Carburetor Jet Program, Intake Runner Harmonic Pulse Prediction, Fuel Injector Sizing Program, Rough Engine Horsepower Estimation Program, RPM Range Program, Optimum Shifter Program

Chrysler Small Block Cylinder Heads: Casting Differences and Porting by Paul M. Pitcher

Jeffrey Diamond's "VICTORY LIBRARY" books, and "VICTORY" & "panic" TECH PAPERS

Building and Using a Cylinder Leakdown Tester

Mopar Mini Starter Guide one and Mopar Mini Starter Guide two from Moparts.
General Mopar Repairs

Restoration Tips and Stories

below is a rather uncategorized set of tidbits and factoids about things that help in identification and assist in keeping these cars going, and going, and going....

NOTE: This section is continually in progress, like most restoration work!

    Don Vermillion writes:
"I've finished repairing
the heater control module
in my 1962 Polara.

The article written by Wally Breer
[see links above] was a big help.
(Thanks Wally).
There are a couple of things that I can add as far as the rebuild is concerned.
Be careful when removing the push buttons, if not careful you could easily break the
socket on the slides. These heater control modules are plastic and are pressed together
in the back with a kind of a snap or pin. My pins were broken and the back of my unit
was completely off. After removing the unit I noticed a wire hanging down inside the dash.
This wire has a flat, 3-pronged connecter on the end of it. This wire goes into the main
harness in the dash. It took us a little while to figure out that this wire goes
into the back of the module (inserted in the top).
I thoroughly cleaned the unit (Q-tips, alcohol, and sandpaper) and reassembled it using
some sewing machine oil on the slides. Note: There is a top and a bottom to the slides;
you may want to mark one so you are sure you re-insert them correctly. I used a small drill
bit and my cordless screwdriver to drill holes where the pins were so I could screw the back on.
I inserted the 3-pronged connecter in the top of the back of the unit and used a little bit
of super glue to hold it in place.
This is also a good time to lubricate the heat control cable.
The unit is back in the car, but not tested as of yet. (December 2003) I will keep you posted!

How To Rebuild a Vacuum Heater Control Switch by Herb, based on the above Wally Breer articles.

Brian Schlump reports a “quick and dirty way” to determine the 90 degree rotation for setting the valves on V8 engines:
  1. Bring up #1 cylinder to TDC
  2. Remove distributor cap, loosen distributor and rotate the distributor to align the reluctor point for #1 cylinder with the pick-up coil. Tighten distributor.
  3. Adjust the valves called out for this position.
  4. Move the engine to the next point where the reluctor matches the coil. That's 90 degrees. Adjust those valves, then follow the same procedure for the other 6 cylinders.
  5. Loosen the distributor and set it back to its initial setting. Install the cap and time the engine properly with a timing light.


Do you know of any Mopar enthusiast who has posted technical data that would help owners of 1962 to 1965 Mopars?
Send the link to the address on the site's Homepage and it will get added here for others to share.

Be Careful! Danger! You risk severe injury or death doing mechanical repairs on your 1962 to 1965 Mopar. Don't take rash chances and don't shy away from careful use of jack stands, spring compressors, eye protection and other safety devices. Get a qualified professional technician to do the work if you are at all unclear about the repair procedures, or if you do not have adequate tools or safety equipment.

No warranty or guarantee is provided for any of the technical tips and repair-related material on this Web site, or on other Web sites linked from or to this Web site. You repair, modify and maintain your Mopar at your own risk! The 1962 to 1965 Mopar Web Site, internally-linked Web sites, and any and all of the contributors to ornocar sites assume no responsibility or liability for consequences resulting from the actions you take after reading material on these Web sites. Work carefully! Work safely! Work smart! Read the general disclaimer before you proceed.

This page was created on December 26, 1999.
This is update number 928 -- March 14, 2021

Please send suggestions for additions to future versions. Thanks.

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