1962 - 1965 Mopar Technical Tips and Links

In the Mopar cyberspace arena there are many people who have developed web sites to share their Mopar passion! There is much sage advice available providing technical lessons on how to keep these Mopars on the road in one form or another.

Let us know if you have the address of a good technical site to share with others.

Here are some preliminary links to other web sites wrenched by Mopar fans:

AutoHobby Digest

• Mopar Oil Pan differences   Note! Also see Mopar Oil Pans.
• A Chrysler 8-3/4 Rear Axle Guide
• Dana 60 Maintenance Manual
• (Note: NAPA part number for the gasket for the 8.75 rear end gasket is P27930. Or use "The Right Stuff" brand gasket sealer.)
• the AutoHobby Digest Brake Conversion Utility
• The AutoHobby Digest Home Page

Pulling tapered axles

Sandy's Garage

• Restoration Shop Equipment Tips
• Plans for building a dolly, a auto rotisserie, and more as added.
• Sandy's Garage Home Page

Don Dulmage's Place: Don's Dodges

The Mopar Pages:

Moparts.com's tech page.

Ultrajosh's Mopar Resources:

Early 'Cuda Tech Page

Neil’s Early Barracuda and General Tech Pages

Four Seconds Flat Tech Papers

Rebuilds and Upgrades

Building a 500 Horsepowerer Polyspherical 318

Restoration Tips and Stories

• Solid state update for a MoPar Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator
• Diagnosing And Repairing Faulty Instrument Gauges
• Get Engauged: So you think your oil pressure doesn't fluctuate? guide to Mopar gauge repair.
• Gauge Rage Mopar gauge repair.
• Instrument Voltage Regulator Build, 1964 Plymouth Fury
• Dave H. helps supply a graphic about wiring in 2 wire alternators and "new" style voltage regulators.
• Don D. writes: The only difference electrically in the single field alternators and the dual wire alternators is in the 1962 Mopar alternator style single wire field the other brush holder is bolted uninsulated to the case, there by grounding it. To use a dual wire field on these cars, just put a ground wire from one of the two fields to the case and plug the other in as normal. It works perfectly and the alternator does not know the difference. The original regulator will function fine in this fashion The more adventuresome individual could ground the one terminal the same as the original one is, but a simple ground on the one terminal is the safest.
  
  It is a very simple system. To do an Alternator Test remove the field wire from the alternator. Clip a jumper wire from the field terminal on the Alternator (that you just pulled the small wire off of) and clip the other end to the large post on the alternator (battery). Start the car and see if it charges. If it does then the alternator is fine. If not then the alternator is Kaput. (As previously mentioned, probably brushes as that is about all that ever fails in these alternators.) If it did charge, then the regulator is the problem (we know that because of the previous test (called a full field test) just bypassed all the regulator wiring etc.). Check and see with a test light is there power coming to the regulator (ignition key ON position) (small terminal on the side of the old style mechanical regulators). If there is, then see if there is any power coming down the wire to the alternator. Most common problem is a bad ground on the regulator case, (rusty hold down screws or they are stripped). Alternators despite their reputations are very simple to test and diagnose. Unlike a generator system they only control voltage. Current handled is built into the unit so testing is much easier then with a generator system. -- Don D.
• Dustin reports Restoring Crinkle Valve Covers on his 1965 Barracuda.
• Fred W. Phaup reports: "For anyone who has tried to put a '64/'65 B body Dodge door on a '63 2 door hardtop b-body, the '63, '64 and '65 doors, glass, vent window, and regulators on the 2 door are the same; the only difference is the door latch mechanism. 1964 and 1965 door latch mechanisms are the same. The 63's are different."
• A body tips from Steve. Includes A body brake modifications; A body suspension modifications; A body engine swaps; A body transmission swaps!
• Tire size charts; speedometer pinion guide
• Tire Size Calculator, tire and wheel plus sizing calculator
• How to Measure Wheel Backspacing
• Wheel Technical Information, including: How to Measure Bolt Patterns; How to Measure Wheel Backspace or Offset; How to Determine Vehicle Fitment; Determine Wheel Caliper Clearance; Typical Lug Nut Torque Specifications; Wheel Terminology; Modular Wheel Inspection and Maintenance; and Modular Wheel Leak Detection
• Stockton Wheel has a form to measure clearances for correct tire-wheel-backspace. Use the the section width of the tire your going to use, not the tread width. (Tip from Earl H. Thanks!)
• Instructions for installing windshield washer package Model 33, Part # 2496 556, on 1964 Plymouth and Dodge (exc '880'), courtesy of Terry Lynch. Thanks! [warning, large graphic file]
• On a rotisserie! A '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Member reports how he is doing with his Mopar's restoration.
• 1965 Barracuda and Dart HP exhaust
• Tool Talk archive of the World of Collector Cars PBS TV Show
• Motor mount part number information: Brand Pioneer, out of Mississippi, made in India, sold in Auto Zone and other stores: Right 602227, Left 602228. This should be correct for all V8 engines (except HEMI) in B bodies for 1965 (I am not sure about other years).Incidentally, the right mount (Pioneer P/N 602227) fits all V8's (again, except HEMI) for all models except A bodies. -- Thanks to Chris North for this information!
  Scott McAlister updates the poly motor mount info, as of July 2002: "Here's the latest on the motor mount situation. NAPA lists nothing to fit our cars, their '66 mounts won't work for us. Auto Zone can order the 602227 RT for $10.49 and stocks them in their warehouse. The LT mount 602228 is currently out of stock from the manufacturer (Pioneer), but normally is $11.99. They can't give me a production or release date. Doan also makes these mounts and I found the RT one #2227 locally in stock yesterday for $8.59. Their LT mount is #2228 and is a special order, same price, they are currently out. Mancini Racing lists nothing for our Poly motors. But Laysons lists both mounts and has them in stock. However, they are a bit pricier. I ordered the LT mount from them. Their part numbers are SR-M160254 for the RT and SR-M160252 for the LT. Both are $24.50 each. All of these mounts are using rubber insulators. Thanks, Scott!
  May 2004 -- Wally Breer reports rubber mounts for the 318 are available from Sealed Power: Part #'s 270-2227 and 270-2228. Thanks, Wally!
• How to Find True Compression Ratios by Bill Cole.
• "Replacing the electrical connectors in the bulk head connector, and the mating plugs? After crimping the wire to the connector, flow some solder into the wire-connector junction to complete the task.
  It is not hard to do, and should be done to keep the juices flowing, and to avoid wiring fires that might occur from current flowing thru high resistance (read high heat) connections.
  
  I found these replacement connectors at a NAPA store for a whole lot less than I saw them bid for on E-Bay. The part numbers are as follows: 725145 for the female (bulkhead) connector .49 each, 725147 for the male (wiring harness matching plug) connector,.29 each, 2001 prices These should fit any '62 on up bulkhead, and companion wiring shells for our aging cars."  [submitted by Dave Hench, THANKS!]
  
• Convert a Mopar AMP gauge system to VOLT system and avoid bulkhead fires!
  Dim Head Lights? All about Chrysler charging systems and Mopar Voltage Regulators! [Off-site link to A & S Rebuilders, Inc.]
• Electronic solid state voltage regulators: REGITAR #C524, WELLS #VR706, STD #VR101, BWD #R280, FILKO #VR369HD. Year One sells the same voltage regulator for about $30. Unless they've changed NAPA sells one that is very expensive but it does not look anything like the original. Do not use the one that Mopar Performance sells. It is for racing only and never shuts off and can overchage the battery in street use. They do suggest using an electronic VR if you change to electronic ignition but I’m not sure it’s really necessary. However I always change the VR to the electronic type if for no other reason it gets rid of the flickering amp needle and lights. -- Dan
  You can get an electronic voltage regluator that looks like non-electronic type from AS Rebuilders, 12951 Lawrence Rd., Sterling, IL 61081; the number used to be 815 626 8949. I haven’t talked to them in a while. -- James M.
• 1964 Plymouth Variable Wiper Switch Wiring -- Thanks to Butch E. for the information!
• Disc brake swap, B Body part numbers  and another brake conversion resource as well as Ehrenberg's Mopar Action magazine article.
  New 2005! MORE choices in Mopar disc brake conversions: 1964 and 1965 A body Mopars and 1973-up A-body spindles versus 1973-up B,F,J,M,R-body spindles, which argues that you CAN use 1973-Up spindles for disc conversions in early B Body Mopars.
• Do you need new 11 by 2 1/2 inch rear brake drums for your 1962 to 1965 Mopar? Check out Raybestos® part number 2953 (or another brand drum that crosses to that part number). On pre-1965 tapered axle drums use the axle part that is in your existing brake drum and install it in the replacement drum.
• When pulling the tapered axles out once I did have an interesting problem. I was pulling the axles to check axle bearing. I was a good thing I did, one needed to be replaced so I replaced both. When I put the axles back in they went too far in and I had too much end play in the axles. We pulled the axles and chunk. We found the thrust blocks that should have stayed in the chunk apparently had stuck to the axles and dropped down into the differential case. We pulled the chunk, found the thrust blocks, reinstalled them and put it back together withoug a problem. Having a thurst block out of place keeping the axle from going in properly or you may be having trouble getting the axle into the spline. Try not to put too much pressure on the seal when installing the axle. There is an inner seal in the differential case that can be damaged. If everything is apart it is a good time to replace the seal. -- Dennis C.
• Mopar Idler Arm and Pitman Numbers
• 4443436AC is the part number for a steering coupler rebuild kit.
• Rebuilding A Steering Coupler in a 1964 Plymouth.
• 1963 Serial Number Designation
• Reading and references, and other vin leads.
• Tip re 1965 Dodge B's:" that little Dodge Tri-Star emblem on the front of the Coronet fenders? It's the SAME as the emblem used on the sail panels of '68 Darts, not that THEY are any more common. Look around for other uses of this item." Paul Pitcher
• 1962 - 1965 Mopar Paint Codes
• Is your Mopar's gas tank sending unit float leaking? Sadly, mother Mopar in her less-than-wise support of older Mopars, has discontinued the Mopar float. But sneak into your local Ford dealer and get a Ford brass float; it fits right in perfectly. The Ford part number I have is COAZ-9202-B Float Asy. This part number has two brass floats in the package, but the Ford counter parts person should be able to sell you one float, or cross reference the part number to a single brass float. [Editor’s note: if the gas float has a hole in it, the float will fill with gasoline and prevent the float from rising properly, giving a false gauge reading. -- Gary H.]
• Does your Mopar's gas tank sending unit have a dirty sock? No sock? Practice safe fuel intake by getting a new Mopar fuel filter sock to attach to your Mopar's gas tank sending unit. Try asking your Mopar dealer for part number 01670694 or TA2759895. One of these part numbers should provide the solution. UPDATE! October 2004. DChrysler has apparently discontinued these parts. BOO! -- But Kevin M. writes that Ford once again has a substitute: "E1FZ9A011A (long filter), D1FZ9A011A (short filter) for the 5/16 inch fuel line. Be sure to measure your filter sock and go to the Ford dealer and they will tell you which one will match your filter."  Thanks for the part numbers Kevin! Bill C. adds: for a 3/8 inch line on the pickup the Ford part number is D1AZ-9A011-A, (Sender Filter).  Thanks for the part number, Bill!
• You can check the fuel sending unit by removing the wire hooked to it and ground the wire. Then turn on the ignition switch and if the gauge goes to full, the sending unit is bad. If it doesn't go to full, it may be a bad gauge or wiring. -- Gary Bradshaw
• Check out a fuel sending unit from a 1978 Ford pickup. The Ford design picks up parallel to the tank, unlike the Mopar sending unit, but the truck pickup still draws off the bottom of the gas tank; as a bonus the Ford item utilizes a 3/8ths size line.
• The fuel tank sending unit ohm readings are approximately 10 Ohms for full and approximately 60 Ohms for empty, with about a plus or minus 30% acceptable variation for these values. One person tested a 1964 Chrysler 300 sending unit and found Full = 5.5 Ohms; 3/4 = 12.5 Ohms; 1/2 = 19.5 Ohms; 1/4 = 29 Ohms; Empty = 57 Ohms. ( Editor's note: Sorry I don't have the person's name who reported this. Contact me and I'll give credit.) Jeff C. reports the reading should read approximately 10 ohms resistance at the full limit, and about 73 ohms at the empty stop. A good, original sender he tested with a digital meter came up with 10.8 Ohms full, and 74.5 at empty. Also, Dave C. reports testing a NOS sender and readings ranged from 10 or 20 ohms full to about 80 empty.
• Adding seat belts to your 1962 - 1965
• The aftermarket seat belts from Julianos are a three point harnesses that come with a mount for the shoulder harness loop that I welded to the inside of the door post. Drill a matching hole through the trim cover for the bolt and mount the retractor and buckle to the stock mounts on the floor. Works slick! (Thanks to David Myers for the tip!)
• Lap Belt Installation Instructions (Non-Retractable) 2 Point Retractable Seat Belt Installation Instructions
• 318 poly upper radiator hose uses Gates 20168 in a 1962 Dart
• Substitute for the upper radiator hose for a 1964 big block (Max Wedge): get a radiator hose for a 1986 Dodge van with a slant six engine and trim it a little. The \6 hose has the proper pre-formed bends. -- Bill C. -- and Gary B. adds: I use a mid-1970’s big block Dodge pick-up upper radiator hose.
• The angled upper radiator water outlet is discontinued by DChrysler. One replacement aftermarket water outlet to look for is the Four Seasons brand part number 84805. The upper radiator hose connects to this water outlet.
• One big mistake most people make when taking out a radiator for future use, or just saving it for whatever comes down the pike, is to empty the fluid and put it on the shelf. The sediment that stays in the radiator will eat it up if you let it dry out. When you go to use it a year or so later, it will leak, you take it to the radiator shop, they tell you it needs a new core. A lot of effort and investment gone to waste. The best thing to do is to leave a mixture of antifreeze and water in the radiator when your storing it. Use a couple of short pieces of hose, make a plug for them, put a cap on it, and then throw it on the shelf. It will keep for years, and always be good when you go to use it. The next alternative is to have it cleaned and roded before storing in, and then it will keep for a long time also. -- Earl Helm
• Oil Filter Study
• 8.75 rear end guide
• 8.75 rear axle guide, with pictures
• Rear end gear ratio finder -- pre digital! -- "To find out what gear ratio is in the rear chunk, jack up the car and get the rear tires off the ground; use floor jacks to support the car. Put a mark on the driveshaft where you can see it. If SureGrip put a mark on one tire, if not SureGrip put a mark on both tires where assistant(s) can see them. Put the transmission in neutral and crawl under the car. If SureGrip rotate one tire one revolution forward and count the drive shaft revolutions, if not SureGrip get two assistants and have each rotate a tire one revolution forward and count driveshaft revolutions. This method never lies. Tags/buildsheets sometimes do. Since several drivetrains were offered and Mopar had many axle ratios you would need build sheet or fender tag info to know for sure what it came with." Dave Krugler
• Gear Ratio/RPM Chart by Tire Diameter
• NAPA sells a five button heater control vacuum switch that can be modified to work on '62 to '65 Mopars. The NAPA/Echllin part number is HC205. UPDATE December 25, 2006: Mark from NAPA writes: It appears that there are quite a few of these switches left, though they have been dropped from the computer prior to 1971 or 1972. If you do want one or more, you’ll have to ask for it by the number. It will have to be shipped in from Virginia, so would take a few days to get there. Not that our cars are usually used as daily transportation, anyway. I’m a fan who doesn’t want these parts destroyed when the company gets tired of warehousing them. As far as I know, this isn’t imminent. But don’t wait too long, just in case!
• When you are planning to remove the vacuum lines from the back of a heater control switch -- DON'T! The aged, brittle plastic tips are guaranteed to break off.
  
  Instead, label the lines as to where they go and cut the lines about 2 to 3 inches from the switch. You'll have a switch with several inches of vacuum line attached to each of the tips on the switch.
  
  When you reinstall the switch, buy some new vacuum line that is slightly wider in diameter. Use that hose to make a connection where you slide the hose still attached to the switch in one side and the supply hose in the other. A tad of silicone sealer when doing the splice assures no leak.
• I've fixed a couple of heater control switches by finding just the right size brass tubing to fit inside the nipples and cutting it just long enough to match the length from flush inside the switch housing to the tip of the nipple. The brass tubing is available at some hardware stores and most good hobby shops. Cut the piece to length, coat outside of brass tube with JB Weld, insert in porthole on switch body and slide broken plastic nipple back in place over the tubing and wipe off any excess on nipple or smooth surface of inside switch housing and make sure the tube is clear. Let set overnight, put it back together. These switch assemblies are held together by 1/8 inch plastic rivets. I cut the heads off with an Exacto knife then drill them out and tap holes and replace with miniature allen head screws from a hobby shop. Then you have a serviceable switch that can be easily disassembled. Thanks to Dave Krugler for the tip!
• The Operation and Maintenance of the Heater for a Non Air-conditioned 1962-1965 Mopar B-Body by Kevin Merkley. Thanks Kevin!
• Rebuilding Pushbutton Switches part one; and Rebuilding Pushbutton Switches part two.    Note: These two references were written by Wally Breer from the Plymouth Owners Club, (PO Box 46, Cavalier, ND 58220). Thanks to Darrell M. for the articles!

• Installing a Hemi Hood Scoop on a 1965 Plymouth Belvedere II.
• Ball & Trunion boot substitute, thanks to Tom Over, who writes: " While going through all the CV joint boots in stock at my buddie's Advanced Auto Parts store in Harrisburg, PA. the manager, Terry, suggested trying a rack and pinion assembly bellows seal. We found one that worked after trimming both ends off. It is made by TRW Federal-Mogul chassis products part number 15114. I just bought a packet of CV joint grease to pack it with!"
  Randy adds: "There is a piece that must be trimmed off of the assembly bellows seal first to work on the driveshaft. It is too small to fit on the driveshaft and becomes evident once you look at it. The CV seal is much easier to work than old stiff NOS seals. But if you press the cross shaft out, be sure you center it when re-installing it or a new one as a vibration will result from the cross shaft being off any. We had replaced a boot on a 1965 Valiant with a NOS seal, no picnic as the seal was stiff and expensive(on eBay). I tried part number 15114 on my 1963 Belvedere and wouldn't have had to press the cross shaft had it (the shaft) not been worn. The NOS boot we put on the Valiant was so stiff it wouldn't fit over the cross shaft."
• Instructions for installing windshield washer package, Model 33, Part number 2496 556, on 1964 Plymouth and Dodge (exc '880'), courtesy of Terry Lynche.
  Update 2007: Shermans-Auto-Museum now repros big block Mopar ball and trunion rubber boots and Chrysler Ball-n-Trunion Replacement Boot that you can install WITHOUT disassembling the ball-n-trunion and without trying to push it through the housing!
• Part number 2258723 is a horn contact assembly that fits a 1963 Dodge 'B'. You can see on the top photo that the plastic goes bad and crumbles, so if you find a new old stock replacement at a swap meet...grab it!  Thanks to Jimmy Peavy for the picture and part number.
• Mopar Transmission Cables. [Thanks to Bill Watson!]
• The gearshift control cable seal for a 1965 Torqueflite has a part number of 1316 813 for all models. It notes 11/16 OD. I found the replacement "O" ring seal at my local NAPA auto parts; NAPA part number 727-2112. -- Thanks moparbikeguy!
• Converting to a new style 727 story.
• How to rebuild a Pushbutton Torqueflite transmission. [off site link]
• Engine Support for Transmission Removal Story
• 1964 Automatic Transmission cables SERVICE BULLETIN  Thanks to Mike for the info!
• 1964 Chrysler, Dodge, Plymouth Automatic Transmissions, Push-Button and Console Torqueflite Design Changes as wall as transmission cable adjustment tips.
• If you put a 1965 TorqueFlight into a 1962 to 1965 pushbutton car you do not need change out the 1965 manual lever (also known as the "roster comb") on the valve body. After you put the 1965 transmission into the 1962 to 1965 Mopar, the 1962 to 1964 Factory Service Manual proceedure for adjusting the shift selector cable with buttons is no longer correct. Instead, start the adjustment with the Low button depressed and held (Park off). (Holding the reverse button is what the '62 to '64 Factory Service Manual ststes about the "button" adjustment proceedure.) Check the adjustment by seeing if the neutral starting switch "makes" in both park and neutral. The manual lever was changed across the board in 1965 because Chrysler eliminated pushbuttons and the 1965 shift selector mechansim required more travel on the manual lever to accomodate the Park function, exactly like the 1964 console equipped cars. In fact, the manual lever is the same one that was used in 1964 on console shift equipped Mopars. Thanks to Wally Breer for this info!
• Tom Over writes: "I was in need of the in-line transmission filter that mounts along the side of the oil pan in front of the starter on a 1962 Dodge Polara 500. There is no internal transmission filter in this 727 Torqueflite, just a screen. The 1963's also had an external filter.
  
  Gary H. informed me that the Fram transmission number was P1651PL, that crossed to Chrysler 2400124 and J3168060 and GM 715102 and 5579826. He wrote that he heard that all of these were out of production, but it may prove possible to find one sitting on a parts store's shelf.
  
  He also reported that a Wix filter 58964 (a magnetic in line transmission filter) can be used as a substitute.
  
  Well, I tracked each of those part numbers, but couldn't get my hands on any of them. So I decided since I'm going to be using this car as a daily driver and not a show car, that practicality is what counts. I went to my friendly NAPA store and looked at the parts catalogue under aftermarket filters.
  
  I came up with part number 4755 miscellaneous filter base and part number 1320 oil filter. I then bought two Edelmann number 122520 brass elbow fittings to fit the inlet and outlet ports on the filter base, a couple lengths of 5/16 inch flexible brake line, a couple 5/16 inch brass unions and three 5/16 inch bolts, washers and nuts to mount the base.
  
  I mounted the filter on the passenger side inner fender well, as far front as it would fit. I cut the cooler line on the passenger side coming out of the radiator, made a new section of cooler line turning 90 degrees and up to the inlet port of the base. Then another new section of line coming out the outlet port and back down to the existing original line that was cut. I double flared both ends and joined them with a union.
  
  The transmission filter works like a champ! Maybe someone else will benefit from my solution."
• 1962 Dodge Polara 500 Cowl Repair
• A 1970 Cuda trunk lid lip molding fastener kit from R/T Specialties are darn near perfect for installing the beltline molding on a '63 Dodge Polara 500. One would need to purchase additionalal plastic clips to do the entire car. Nice fit! Thanks to Bill for the info!
• Building Max Wedge Style Custom Headers for a 1965 Dodge Coronet
• "While restoring a 1963 Plymouth Sport Fury and discovered a good fix for a broken speedometer cable. The speedometer cable was broken in the sheath. After trying to extract the small lodged segment for the better part of a morning, I gave up and tried the local Kragen auto parts store just to see if they had a cable that might come close. The closest thing they had was a cable for a later model Plymouth. The part number is CA-3004. The length and gauge end connector all matched. The transmission end did not. This cable sheath on the newer cable is a flexible plastic. The original sheath is made of coiled metal. I cut the transmission end off of the original sheath leaving about 2 inches of sheath sticking out of the transmission end sleeve. This made it easy to unscrew the remaining coiled metal out of the transmission fitting. The plastic O.D. is a bit larger than the trans fitting sleeve O.D., so a bit of whittling was needed to decrease the diameter of the sheath. Once this was accomplished the cable slid into the fitting. I used epoxy to fix the two parts together."  Curtis Thanks for the tip, Curtis!
• 1964 Plymouth trunk spare tire and jack location
• Poly 318 gasket kit from Victor Reinz, made by Dana: FS1134TC, covers all engines from the 277 to the 318 from 1956 to 1968.
• Troubleshoot your overheating Mopar!
  Ony two causes of overheating: 1) air flow  2) water flow.
  a) Take yout Mopar out to a road where you can run a constant speed for about a mile or so, and be able to pull over.
  b) Get the engine up to temperature and drive at about 45MPH, depending on your rear end gear ratio. You want to pick a speed that you can shift down a gear and maintain that speed.
  c) If your Mopar heats up while driving at a constant speed in high gear, shift down one gear, keep the same speed, and see if the temperature goes up or down.
  d) If the engine temperature goes up, then you have a water flow problem.
  e) if the engine temperature goes down, then you have an air flow problem.
  
  We learned this method back in the 1960's. — Earl H.  Thanks to Earl H. for the info!
• Does your car's motor overheat in stop and go extreme high temperature conditions? install a electric fan with a 12 v supply from the battery to a fan (really foglight) relay and then to the fan. The trigger of the relay was grounded one side and the other wired into the brake lights. Anytime he was stopped the electric fan came on automatically and kept his monster cool. it was simple practical and very effective.  —  Don Dulmage Thanks, Don!
• Mopar Fuel Pump Shield Pattern by Don Dulmage Thanks, Don!
• One man's story: Installing frame connectors in an early B Body.
• Mopar Torsion-Aire Suspension - How a Mopar’s torsion bar works.
• Mopar Torsion Bar removal: “Take 2 2x4’s about 8" long, at about 2.5" cut a notch. The notch will go around the Torsion Bar. Drill 2 holes 1" away from the notch on either side. Take 4 nuts and bolts and sandwich around the Torsion Bar. Smack the wood with a small sledge hammer to remove the Torsion Bar.”— Thanks to Dustin C.for the tip!
• Rob L. writes about Conversion U-Joints: Here are some numbers and a link for the conversion of 7260-7290 driveshaft sizes. It's a U-Joint with a large and small cross size to fit big-small yoke/driveshaft sizes.
  Mancini  5-527X  $34.95
  NAPA  NUJ-240-0369  $29.99
  Auto Zone 2-0527  $22.99
  Mopar  5007418
  Precision (Moog)  347
  CR   UJ 347
  TRW  20226
  Rockford Driveline
• Edelbrock Performer Series Carburetor Owner's Manual
• Carburetor sizing: Apply Don’s law: practical carb size in CFMs is double the cubic inches. I.e., a 318 needs 318 X 2 which is 636 cfm so a 650 would be perfect for a screamer and a 600 for a grunter (truck, etc.); a 440 needs then 880 cfm so a 850 would do in a heavy vehicle and a modified 850 with choke removed or 870 would be great for a screamer. A 383 would need a 766 so a 750 would be great for a grunter and a modified 750 choke removed etc. for a screamer. A 400 would obviously use a 800 and I equipped...[a] 400 cu in engine with exactly that producing over 500 hp in streetable trim. HOWEVER, when you go to a ram style manifold you can use two of the same since the signal a carb gets from this type of manifold is very strong so the low speed laziness associated with oversize carbs is not there. Also Crossrams use vacuum secondaries. (AFB are essentially vacuum secondaries although technically they do not use vacuum but air volume to topple the weighted upper secondary air valve, the effect is the same (which is to say no airflow in the secondary till the engine can sustain it.) Or we could put it like this: the car operates normally on a 750 cfm carb (primary side of two 750s which would = 1/2 the total volume of the two carbs). When the engine reaches sufficient RPM and load to open the secondaries it now has 1500 CFM available. Vacuum secondaries area real boost to street performance vehicles because of this. Best of both worlds. Now if you are a stickler and can’t deal with the Don’s law thing, then get your slide rule out and knock yourself out with the math figuring half (because the intake stroke occurs every SECOND revolution) the RPM X cu inches divided by 1728 (cubic foot in inches ); however I must warn you, you will be picking the same size carb when you are done.
  Furthermore, the question comes up in one’s mind that carb sizing is for racing of full performance. What if one just wants carb for an engine that will never see 6000 RPM. Should you use a differeent formula?
  Actually it is not necessary. Because carb sizing is focused on the whole rpm range and proper carb operation at low speed. That is because any engine will operate a carb at high speed. That is never a problem, even a 1050 Dominator on a VVW flat four would be possible at 2500 RPM. It is the low speed perfomance that we are always concerned about and the carb sizing formulas, mine or the complcated math version, are picking the largest size of carb practical that will still drive normally and properly at normal low speed so you can use the same formula even if you intend to drive like yer Granny.
  Remember, a lot of so-called carb problems are actually not, but can be traced to ignition. Otherwise, they can be poor choices well-intended but made because of a misunderstanding of how a carb functions. Here would ba a typical examle and I hear this often. “I have a 750 on my car but the guy who did jetted it down to a 600.” —  WRONG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  Jetting in all carbs is designed for normal mixture (ca 13 to 1 air fuel ratio which means we mix 1 pound of fuel for every 13 pounds of air. And it doesn’t matter if it is a 350 a 500 a 1050 or bigger. The mixture should be the same.) Anytime you need to change a Holley more than 4 jet sizes, even for racing, you need to ask yourself what is wrong. Something certainly is, since 4 jet sizes would bring any Holley carb well into the 12 to 1 AFR range — and there is never any reason to go more than that. Carbs are real very simple. If someone talks like they are not, avoid him. A four barrel Holley, for instance, has four internal parts that can be serviced: 4 jets, one or two power valves, 2 or 4 idle screws and two floats with needle valves. It may have one accelerator pump and nozzle with accompanying check needle (Vacuum sec) or two (double pumper), that is it. I know some race carbs have replaceable air bleeds, etc., but I would avoid them, as they are just an invitation to trouble on the lost highway of hot rod life and rarely of ever need to be touched unless you are running in the top ten of Prostock. — Don D.
• Carburetor tuning: Carb’s are about venture signal. First, get the timing curve right, our motors like a different timing curve than a chevy. Next get the fuel pressure right. Then start with the carb. Floats First. Start with the factory recommendations. If you’r messed up, and get it out of whack tuning, go back to the factory settings. ALL the settings, primaries, secondary, and accelerator pump cam’s (Holly), and air/fuel bleed settings, needles if Eddy.
  Almost all Street Avengers and Eddy’s work well out of the box. If you bolt it on and it is a dog, go back to the first step, first, then the carb.
  Most Eddy’s have the floats set wrong....
  Start tuning the primaries, primary accelerator pump, get it driving good on the primaries, then start on the secondary side. Most carbs have a tuning chart based on your altitude, use it, it will start you in the correct direction.
  If you skip timing curve, fuel pressure, and go straight to the carb, you get statements like, “It does not work like I expected.” -- Earl H.
• HEI electronic conversion for Mopars
• Risky63 writes: “ I recently found an air cleaner combination that will fit a cross ram intake with AFB’s and clear the stock hood without having to cut the hood bracing. I have a 1963 Plymouth Fury that I put a Max Wedge engine in and I drag race the car usually at Infineon and Sacramento strips. I have been running a hood with a fiberglass Max Wedge scoop that someone cut the bracing out. I wanted to run the stock hood but could not find air cleaners that would clear. The stock Max Wedge cleaners do not flow enough air. K &N part numbers 66-1401 X-stream air flow tops, E-3742 air filters (14x2.8"), 85-3549 drop bases (1 1/4" drop) will fit under the stock hood. A 1/2" air cleaner spacer is needed on the passenger’s side carb. to clear the throttle linkage. I am using -6 braided fuel lines. Russell part #640270 Carter Banjo fitting allowed me to use the braided line. Stock fuel lines should clear without any problems. Hope this helps anyone with the same type car. Thanks for the tip!
• Tom Faust writes that Standard Motor Products #DS165 and GP Sorenson #GPSLS63 are a couple of aftermarket headlight switches that will fit a 1964 Plymouth. These switches are available through local parts stores. Thanks for the tip!
• Nick Tiberio reports that “for 1963 and several years before, for rear wheel studs that press into the hub and brake drum I found that NAPA Part # 641-1157 will work. Wheel bolt 169 1/2-20 x 1 5/8 inch.”
• Mopar left hand wheel studs: DORMAN Part # 610131 {AutoGrade Hardware Type Serrated Stud Thread 7/16-20L Knurl Dia. .561 inch Length 2 inches Shoulder Length 1-1/16 inches; FRONT STUD w/7/16-20L Thd, Front Disc\ (Not sure if the discs are shorter than drums.) These are the 7/16 inch variety on A bodies; I do not know if the B body Mopars use it. -- Menko

1. Bring up #1 cylinder to TDC
2. Remove distributor cap, loosen distributor and rotate the distributor to align the reluctor point for #1 cylinder with the pick-up coil. Tighten distributor.
3. Adjust the valves called out for this position.
4. Move the engine to the next point where the reluctor matches the coil. That's 90 degrees. Adjust those valves, then follow the same procedure for the other 6 cylinders.
5. Loosen the distributor and set it back to its initial setting. Install the cap and time the engine properly with a timing light.

• The National Auto Glass Specifications (NAGS number) is 134 for a 1964 Dodge (330, 440, Polara, Polara 500), 1964 Plymouth (Savoy, Belvedere, Fury, Sport Fury), 1965 Dodge Coronet (all) and 1965 Plymouth Belvedere (all). The windshield fits all models - sedans, hardtops, convertibles and wagons.  —  Bill Watson
• How to Tune With A Vacuum Gauge.
• Dash Removal without removing the windshield: Akron Don reports: “Yes, I’ve done it. It takes about a 1/2 hour (at least) and lots of patience to remove the screws at the base of the windshield. I used what Craftsman calls a 3/8 Saltus wrench (one side is an open end and the other side is a socket on a swivel which is the end you use) and a 45 degree or deep offset 3/8 by 7/16 box wrench.”
• Putting an early Hemi into a 1962 to 1965 Mopar B Body
• Electric fuel pumps; The Mallory Comp 140 is a gerotor type and noise seems to be less than a lot of others. I have also used a Carter centrifugal, which isn’t too bad and a lot less money. Most of the noise problem can be alleviated by the way you mount the fuel pump. I mount mine using 1/2 inch thick rubber and bolting the pump to the rubber, then the rubber to the frame with separate bolts. The pumps will also produce less noise if you run a return line instead of a single “deadhead” line to the carb. Also remember that centrifugal pumps will push lots of fuel but they don’t like to suck it very far. Mount the pump as low and close to the tank as possible. Use a good sized filter between the tank and the pump and another filter before the carb(s). -- Bob H. -- 1963 Fury
• Build A Low budget Engine Break In Stand
• Hedman Headers fit a big block 1965 B Body. Part Number 78030 -- They fit great and you can even get them coated, there is a place in Texas I think...that carries them already coated...4 speed or auto (possible issues with column shift autos only), power steering or not. -- Derrick B. Rich adds The original equipment starter fits also.
• To clean an engine bays and an engine (at least for the intermediate stage) I use regular hand cleaner. After taking off the big chunks of grease with a putty knife, screwdriver, etc., I go to it with a scrubbie dipped in hand cleaner, maybe dip an old toothbrush in the hand cleaner for gettng into the cracks. It works great. Keep hosing off between applications. After about three applications you have removed almost all of the dirt and grease; then go in with degreaser to remove all the last remnants. -- Neal Zimmerman
• Oil dipstick tube broken? Remove the broken dipstick tube and clean the hole in the block. Then get some dry ice (Check the Yellow Pages or for ice cream distributors who carry it). Put the end of the tube in the dry ice and cool it down. Once cold, it will slip right into the hole in the block block because the dipstick tube will shrink up appreciably. It works for me every time, especially with those brittle chrome dipstick tubes. When the tube expands to original size, it will seize in the block and there will be NO leaks. -- John, aka moparbikeguy
• Speedometer cable lube? Vaseline works great with no drawbacks. Also good is dielectric grease, however, vaseline is as good as anything. How to? Remove the speedo cable under the dash. Using needle nose pliers extract the core from the cable far enough to grab it with you fingers. Extract it, coiling it in your hand in a circle (6 to 8 inches), making sure to keep it off the floor. Rub the coiled cable with vaseline and reinstall it . All you want is to make the coiled cable wet. There should be no gobs of vaseline. You may have to turn it slightly just before it goes in the last half inch to get it into go into the gear square hole. Use the needle nosers for that reinstall and you are done for several years if not forever. Cable always come out from the top and will not come out from the bottom. Should take about 10 minutes. -- Don Dulmage
  Sil Glide works very well also. Vaseline is cheaper and works very well also. Just do like Don says and coil it very gently. I usually wipe if down as I remove then replace it with a thin coat of Sil Glide or Vasoline. -- mopar413
  Templates indicating the location for installing a side mirror on your Mopar
• Most of our B Mopars were originally shipped with single bolt cam gear. The bolt is still available from Momma Mopar but the special cupped washer is not. Many of us replace the single bolt with a three bolt but not all and occasionally I come across a cam that is only available in single bolt. I have spent now three weeks finding a cam washer for this current special “vintage build” using a period correct cam. Maybe we should spread the word. Do not throw out that cam bolt and washer. This is the second time in a couple of months I have had to go looking. and both customers had single bolt cams but had torn down the engine with their friends and chucked the washer or lost it. Some day, soon, there will be no more to find so maybe we could spread the word to other Mopar Web sites to hang onto them whether one needs them themselves or not. Just a thought... Don D.
• Jason writes: 1965 B Body Dodge Hardtop catwhisker weatherstrip: Just in case anyone runs into this problem in the future with their 1964 or 1965 2-door B Body hardtop: the rear quarter window weatherstrip or catwhisker has an angle cut at one end and a straight cut at the other, as viewed from sitting in the rear of the car looking out. The problem I had was which way does the angle cut end face? The answer is the angle cut goes to the back of the car with the straight cut towards the front. The angle cut sort of follows the slant of the sail panel roof-line. Also, the catwhisker itself is a folded over 'V'. The other problem was V up or /\ down? Well, it looks like it goes in V up, as in, if you sit on the sill plate and look down the window channel, the catwhisker makes a right side up V. Thanks to '62 to '65 Mopar Mail List Member Christopher, and some timely pictures of his hardtop, for the answer.
  
• If you touch up paint, do not use the brush in the bottle that comes with touch up paint. Using a syringe instead of the brush gives better paint flow control. But some people use a common pin dipped in the paint, then place the tip of the pin where the scratch is and let the paint ease into the repair. After the touch up paint is dry use a rouge, like the 'Black Magic' brand, to lightly polish the repair.
• To keep bare metal rust free look into these products:  “Wet Graphite” from NAPA and MP-50, a Premium Low-Friction Moly-Paste from Jet-Lube.
• Repairing a cracked engine block used to be a horrible job. Nickel (Ni) rod was used most. Nowadays there are some really good stick welding rods for cast iron. For engines I use rods with copper in them, as they weld better. The trick is to do a tiny bit at a time, just a bzzzzzzt, then leave it for a day, or at least 8 hours. Then another bzzzzzzt. After a week all will be well. If you rush the repair the repair will crack. Preheating will help greatly, but is not easy to do with a block. I have seen some blocks welded so well I was astounded. If the crack does not end in a frost plug hole, then it can be sewn with excellent results. Sewing involves special tapered breakaway plugs and a special tap. I was, in my youth, very good at this, and fixed many, many industrial heads and antique engines while working for Harry Wilson's at Wilson's of Belleville. He once even had me sew down an antique cylinder to just above the ring travel and we had no comeback on that. Another way is to drill out the area if it is small enough and tap it for a pipe plug. I have rescued tractor engines for farmers down on their luck that way (even between cylinders on the gasket deck). A good sealer or JB weld coating the threads improves the seal. Also, and maybe the best, diesel heads are repaired all the time. There is a specialty shop in Montreal that does it (and warranties it as well). I think someone in the USA must too. I had my cracked 426 wedge head repaired there. One head was cracked in the valve cover area and seeped antifreeze slightly. I sent both with instructions that, since it is obviously a weak spot, whatever the cracked head needs do also to the good head. It cost $270, which was nothing compared to having no heads, and now they are better than original. Just a few options I know of. Perhaps there are more.  — Don Dulmage
  Grease seal with spring inside tip: when installing these kind of seals, always apply some axle grease to the area around the tension spring, sorta consealing it. Apply as much as you want. When you drive it in the grease will keep the spring in place. -- Doug Ahern
  
  1964 Belvedere Trunk and Weatherstrip Detail
  
  A good backyard trick when doing press on bearings and collars is to put the bearing and collar under a heat lamp, or just sit them on a 100 watt light bulb. Then put the axle in ice, or hit it a couple of times with a CO2 fire extinguisher. Most of the time the bearing will fall on. -- Earl H.
  
  My side view mirror on my 1964 Dodge 440, that is, the mirror part, was as loose as a goose. To tighten it, I took the mirror off, took the snap ring, mirror, and spring off, wrapped a rag around the base and put it in a vise. Then, taking a small ball hammer, I taped on each end of the flat metal piece that covers the shaft. By tapping on each end it tightens the metal piece on the shaft. Hope this helps you out.... Butch
  
  Gas Tank O-Ring seal for 1962 and 1963 Mopar B Body filler neck:
  2.000" i.d., 2.375" o.d., 3/16" crossection (nominal) (actual - .210")
  The outer diameter of the filler neck is 2.000"
  To install:
  Clean outer surface of filler neck and the groove in the mouth of the gas tank.
  Insert o-ring into groove in the mouth of the gas tank, rub a scant drop of 3-in-One oil on the inside edge of the o-ring. Push the filler neck down into the mouth of the gas tank, making sure the filler neck is sliding through the middle of the o-ring, not catching on it and pushing the o-ring further inside the tank (this is nearly imposible to do anyway).
  Then push or pull the filler neck to the best length to install well in the car.
  Cheers, Paul of Pasadena (the Little Old "put a Dodge in your garage, honey" Lady, lives next door)
  (note: The original part number for the 'O' ring was 1730087 -- long since an obsolete number.)
  
  1962 to 1965 Dodge Steering Column Coupler Modification
  
  Steering Box: “Most loose steering on our cars are from a worn out or mis-assembled coupler. The copper bronze shoes go the way that looks wrong and it is easy to miss-assemble them. Coupler should have no play. When wrong they have about 1/16 to 1/8. I know I know, not yours. I hear it every week when someone asks me, but when I go and check for them I almost always find the box to steering wheel shaft coupler is loose. After they get the box overhauled and all the suspension rebuilt and relieve themselves of a few hundred bucks, they come back and we fix it in 10 or 15 minutes. Mopar dealers have the parts in stock, or did a year ago, and trucks right into the 90s used the same coupler. I just buy the shoes, the spring and the orange rubber. If the pin is good I do not replace it because it is better left alone, unless it is worn, which it rarely is. How to check? Grasp the steering shaft going to the steering wheel in one and and the coupler in the other. Try to twist them in opposite directions. If it is worn or mis-assembled the slop will be OBVIOUS. It is certainly, at the very least, the first thing to check. Very few mechanics of the non-Mopar variety assemble these properly. They look like they should go the other way, but that makes them loose. Coupler can be serviced very easily in the car without removing the box or the steering shaft. Borgeson makes a better joint assembly, if one wants to upgrade.” — Don D.
• Front end alignment: “On radial tires the specs are normally quite close to 0 camber and 0 caster (aka a neutral alignment.) To check take a small plum bob or make one with a heavy washer and a piece of string. With the wheels straight ahead hang the string and bob over the fender so the string passes through the centre of the wheel. When it stops swinging measure the distance from the string to the top side of the wheel rim and then from the string to the bottom side of the wheel rim. In real life the top measurement should be just slightly shorter than the bottom measurement. About 1/8 of an inch which gives the car just a slight amount of Positive camber and helps put a bit more load on the inner wheel bearing which is larger on our cars. Anything from that to both exactly the same would be ‘in specs’ so to speak. Next with the wheels still straight ahead hold the string to the bolt of the upper ball joint. The washer or bob should be almost centered over the bolt for the bottom ball joint. That would be 0 degrees. If it is forward it would be neg caster and if it is behind it would be positive caster.
  Rule of Thumb
  When I am standing facing the front of my car anything coming towards me (from front to back or from the side) is negative (Caster Camber) anything going away from me is postive (Caster . camber ) It makes sense of you think about it. ‘if I am standing in front of a car anything coming towards me is negative.’ — hard to forget.
  And now a short note for those who have already said I think it would be a lot better getting it lined up on a modern computerized alignment machine; (which never has your 1962 to 1965 alignment specs in it anyway, and may have been dropped five times that week alone and could be seriously out of calibration from ther drops and abuse). Let me assure you that I can absolutley guarantee that the bob weight is hanging exactly at 0 degrees. No ifs, ands or buts about it. Other than that there is Radial tire pull:. a very common problem and the previous recommendations about swapping the tire side to side is standard check for this. Also rear axle steer if the springs are severly arched is possible as the spring gets longer as it is compressed flatter which can move the position of the rear axle.
  Other than that there os no magic no phantom stuff, assuming the front end is in good condition. I have seen a siezed shock hold a car out of alignement but that is rare.
  Measure also to see the wheelbase is the same both side of the car: short side always pulls. In fact, the condition is known as short side pull and was used by some aligmnment guys, including me, to offset for the tendancy of the crown of the road to pull the car slighty toward the ditch as you drove. By puttng a 1/2 degree + caster in the driver’s side that made that side just a wee bit shorter and would hold the car straight even on a crown road.” — Don D.
  
  1962 to 1965 Mopar Sway Bar Details
  “I bought a new 22 inch radiator for a 1973 E-body 340 and put it in my 1964 B-body. The top holes lined right up, but I had to do a teeny bit of cutting and drilling on the bottom holes. But it was a piece of cake, and looks like it belongs there--other than the square top.” -- Sean B.